A Guide to Diamond Studs

A Guide to Diamond Studs

We recently helped a client convert an unwanted engagement ring into diamond studs, through our bespoke service. It got us thinking about the options available when selecting a pair of diamond studs and we thought it would be useful to share some of the options, should you be thinking about a pair. 

Decision 1- Settings

Claw settings hold the diamond with metal projections, which are referred to as prongs. Stones in studs are usually held by 3 or 4 prongs, although some antique designs have up to 8. 

Bezel settings hold diamonds by wrapping them with a band of metal around the edge. They are considered safer than prong settings, but the bezel hides more of the surface of the diamond.

Decision 2 - Style

These styles differ most notably in the shape of their bottom as well as how far from the earlobe the diamond in the earring sits. 

Martini-style Setting

Martini-style settings are shaped like a cone (the v-shape resembles a martini glass from the side). The diamond in this setting is set close to the ear, and as a result, the earring is less likely to droop. Some people don’t like the conical shape of this setting, as they feel that it digs into their ear holes and stretches them. Whether this actually happens varies from person to person. Many people wear martini-style earrings without experiencing any problems, but this potential issue is something you should think about. 

Basket-style Setting

Basket-style settings have a flat bottom, and the stones in many of them are set farther from the ear compared with martini-style settings. This type of setting is a good choice if you are concerned that martini-style studs could dig into your ears. 

Crown-style Setting  

The crown-style setting is flat at the point where it touches the earlobe, but this type of setting usually has a more solid construction than the basket-style setting, causing the diamond to sit further from the ear.

Decision 3 - Backs

Stem and Butterfly

La Poussette Backs

La Poussette backs are jewellers number one choice for security. The backs feature opposing spring-loaded clips that lock securely onto a specially designed post. You have to pinch both clips to release the back from the post. 

Screw Stems and Backs 

Screw Stems are jewellers number one choice for security. The screw back may be less comfortable for those with sensitive ears because the stems tend to be thicker to accommodate for the threading. The other thing to be aware of is, if you like switching your earrings everyday, these back are more time consuming, so may not be the right option. 

Brilliant cut 'round' stones are by far the most popular option, but the possibilities are endless. We particularly recommend the trilliant cut 'triangle' stone, for a lovely more unusual look. If you have any unloved stones you are thinking about re-using, or if you would like our assistance in sourcing antique diamonds and designing your perfect pair of studs, please do get in touch here.

Please note, external brands featured on our journal, Footnotes, have no affiliation to Lylie’s unless otherwise stated. Any sentiments expressed are the opinions of Lylie and her editorial team.


Eliza Walter


Danae Papazymouri

Send me love letters